Restaurant: A Travessa.

Travessa do Convento das Bernardas 12 Madragoa - Lisboa

1200-638 LISBOA   +351 - 213 902 034                              www.atravessa.com

A Travessa has been my favourite restaurant in Lisbon since I first entered its first tiny, 6 table space in the Travessa das Inglesinhas (Little Englishwomen’s Alley) over 20 years ago. Its reputation and popularity have rightly grown and so, as result, has the space: it now spreads handsomely over a large part of the cloisters of an old convent further into the old Madragoa quarter. I am half Belgian and have lived in Portugal for most of my adult life, so the mixture of Belgian and Portuguese gastronomy in a delightful old setting is perfect.

Of course, it is the food that draws. The rich variety and succulence of the small starters and hors d’oeuvres, which appear on the table as you hum and haw over your main course or the splendid wine list, are almost a meal in themselves. The freshest and most original of breads with small dishes of heavenly gourmet olive oils from the Alentejo to dip them into, tiny mussels in the lightest of vinaigrettes, grilled peppers, small spicy sausages, pâté with onion jam ...it goes on. The main courses change each day but always include some Belgian favourites such as mussels, skate fried in black butter, steak tartare (actually the Belgians call it filet américain), boudin, as well as great – and super-fresh – Portuguese fish dishes such as grilled Dover sole and black grouper (cherne) in rice, or traditional meats such as black leg (Pata Negra) roast pork and grilled venison fillet with wild mushrooms. The wine list is comprehensive and thoughtful. The puddings are unpretentious and satisfyingly sinful.

Like the best of Belgian cuisine, this is high gourmet without pretension; like the best of Portuguese it is fresh  and honest. The surroundings are delightful – by a huge roaring log fire in winter, under sunshades in the patio in summer.  The service is outstanding. You’ll get a visit from the charming Vivienne, the Belgian owner and founder, and discreet advice from a knowledgeable wine waiter if you need it (I do).

It’s not a cheap restaurant but neither does it suffer from the extortion of the nouveau riche joints where the celebrities go. EUR 50 will get you an excellent meal, EUR 80 an unforgettable blow out. Go on, find something to celebrate with someone you love!